A Lady in front of Hawa Mahal , Jaipur
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Jaipur
"Elephants, Arab horses, camels from Kutch....are being bought and sold. In this beautiful town built by Rajadhiraj, embroidered cloth from many countries...and jewellery are being transacted. Hundis of lacs and crores of rupees are current here. Thirty two kinds of weights (systems) are all used correctly here."
--- Poet Girdhari, 1739
Yes, indeed! Jaipur - the capital of Rajasthan, is not only the gateway to the state, but is also a perfect launchpad to begin a discovery of Rajasthan's multifaceted attractions. Built of pink stucco in imitation of sandstone, the Pink City of Jaipur with its modernism reflected in urban places and archaic monuments, is a unique synthesis of the traditional and the modern worlds. As one walks through the magnificent Rajput palaces or the bustling trading centres, memories take a smooth trail to the dramatic chapters of bygone era, and thus one can never forget Jaipur. Stoicism is a merely a fantasy in maharajah Sawai Jai Singh's capital. The mind of the traveller that would fit like a genie into a bottle at the City Palace, the multiple facades of the Hawa Mahal looking onto the Johri Bazaar splashing the exotic blue pottery made from crushed quartz, the aerial view of the city from Birla Mandir, a camel on the road with a Rajasthani man on top of it with a colourful turban, is suffice to paint imaginations.
The Glorious Past of This Cultural City
As a city, Jaipur is fairly young, less than three centuries old. There are some stories one can hear at Jaipur related to the kinship that existed between the valiant Kacchawahas and the more powerful Mughals, back in Delhi. One of the interesting stories is about the name 'Sawai', and how Jai Singh received the epithet - implying he was a quarter more intelligent than most others - from Emperor Aurangazeb when he was merely 7 1/2 years old. When the juvenile rajah went to visit Aurangazeb, the Moghul asked him holding his hands, " How do you expect to be powerful with your hands tied thus?" Jai Singh was quick-witted, and replied " Just as a bridegroom takes his bride's hands following their betrothal, in a sacred vow to protect her, so you, Sir, have held my hands. What do I fear now that the Mughal himself has taken my hands in his?" Aurangazeb was pleased and immediately bestowed the prince with the hereditary title of 'Sawai', placing the Kacchawaha clan (where only 10 maharajahs have sat on the throne in the past 250 years), a quarter above other Rajput families. Another example of Jai Singh's farsightedness is the way he had made sure, all those years ago, that nobody can ever get lost in Jaipur. In fact, he designed the modern capital with a Bengali Architect, Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, according to ancient 'silpa shastra', to be friendly to all those things that a logical person would dream of - to make money, to live in a city that has its own charm and simultaneously easy to navigate, and like a space enthusiast, sit under the big black sky while counting stars.
Go Pink With Jaipur
The fascinating city with its romantic charm takes everybody to an epoch of royalty and tradition. Here the past comes alive in magnificent forts and palaces, that overlook the city and surrounding landscapes. Of the nine blocks Jai Singh divided his capital into, he parted two for himself. Within these is housed a voluminous complex of royal residences, the City Palace, in a urbane confluence of Mughal and Rajput styles, a part of it is now converted into a heritage hotel. Have a rendezvous with the 'Rajmata' (royal mother) Gayatri Devi, who still resides here. If one is interested in seeing how the mighty maharajahs lived their life, take a look at the timeless photography of royalty at the Palace Museum. Visit the eminent Hawa Mahal, amidst the bustling Johri Bazaar, which is said to enjoy the coolest breezes in town with its 953 sandstone windows. As with all other Jantar Mantars - magnificent observatories built by Jai Singh around the country, the one in Jaipur was made to avoid the errors that crept in with the use of smaller instruments. The Jaipur observatory with its huge, concrete geometrical shapes and curves, portrays the king's true belief in the importance of astronomy an modern architecture, in today's life. One can also visit the ancient capital of Jaipur state, Amber Fort, an imposing structure atop a mountain. The stunning golden building is most beautiful during dawn and dusk, when the sun rays fall on it's bastions, shinning it like a brilliant amber jewel. One may choose a car or an elephant ride to get to the fort. Encouraging eco-tourism, Rajasthan tourism has created lush landscapes around Jaipur where short treks can be combined with a study of the local flora and fauna. Head for the Jhalana National Park, close to Amber fort and can look out for varied wildlife and alluring rock formations.
The Gratifying Cultural Celebrations
A Decorated Elephant at Amer Fort , Jaipur
A scientific mind always encourages religious beliefs, and hence Jaipur has always been a favoured place for cultural events, religious fairs and festivals. The festivals are generally dedicated to one or other incarnations of Shiva and Parvati, like the Gangaur and Teej, and are usually marked by a colourful procession, that wends its way through the heart of the Pink City. Women dress superbly, adorning themselves with gold and silver jewellery, and spend time in groups at swings that are specially erected for the festivals. Visit Jaipur in March and be a part of the 'Elephant Festival'. One will be enthralled by the royal procession of colourfully caparisoned elephants on the streets of Jaipur.
Sambhar Salt White Lake That Spices Life of Rajasthan
Take the Jaipur bypass, a little before you hit the city and continue on the same highway en route to Ajmer. After a few kilometres, when shades of brown, green and orange erupt and die on the windscreen, and the landscape images, that were with you till now, begins to slow down, pause a little. Look at the dunes of white on the far banks of the lake, shimmering in crimson twilight. There you are beside India's largest salt water lake. A famous salt treasure in Rajputana (another name for Rajasthan), the Sambhar Salt Lake is 90 km north-west of Jaipur - a place where dust and sand embrace each other, where every camel and every tempo carries raw salt. Drive on the sand-smothered lanes, which lead past the sprawling terrain of Sambhar Salts Ltd - dolled up with reddish-pink office buildings, a salt laboratory and even an forsaken salt museum. The spirulina algae that flourishes in the saline waters, attract hundreds of migratory birds which balance themselves nonchantly on one leg or wander cautiously through the waters in their ballerina stances. You can see groups of men and women standing barefoot in the salt pans, scraping the eight-inch-thick layer of salt off the ground or a group of children playing cricket in the sand. View the setting sun at the Shakhambari Mata Temple, nestling in a small rocky jut on the southern bank of Sambhar Lake. As the darkness settles over the lake, twinkling lights of the town, 10 km away, provides a awe-inspiring sight. Driving to the lake can be confusing, so it's a good idea to hire a jeep from Sambhar town (near the New Bus Stand) for a day.
Shop Till You Drop
Bangles at a stall in Jaipur Market
Jaipur can be a treasure potpourri for shopping enthusiasts, offering everything that a heart desires and a mind thinks about. Visit the Johri bazaar (jeweller's market), near Hawa Mahal. As a major trading centre for gems and jewelleries, one can count on finding some of the country's best trinkets, here at Jaipur. Be sure to check out Jaipur's famed enamel jewellery and vast resources of cut and uncut precious stones. Run into hordes of shops selling traditional skirts, bags, turbans, light quilts, carpets, embroidered shoes (jootis) and other objects d'art at Chhoti Chaupar. One can also buy Jaipur's famous blue pottery at Kripal Singh Shekhawat's studio, on Shiv Marg in Bani Park area, who is credited with reviving the archaic tradition of blue pottery. Freak out at Bapu Bazaar and enjoy the humdrum while savouring the famous spicy 'chhat' (combo of sweet and sore) preparations of this area. Markets are generally open from 10:30 am till 5:30 pm and are closed on Sundays.
Sanganer Sentiments
For fabrics of authentic Sanganeri or Bagru prints, one must visit the Chaupar stalls in Jaipur, and for those who want to trace these fabrics to their original sources, a tour to Sanganer, near city airport is advisable. Situated at 16 km from the city centre, on Tonk Road, the town of Sanganer exhibits beautiful array of hand printed textiles, exported and admired round the globe. Here one can witness large and small units of block and screen printers engaged in producing some fine fabrics. It is not hard to choose from such a wide display, and one can also order designs of personal interests.
Taste The Tasty
While on a trip to Jaipur, do not forget to experience Chokhi Dhani, an ethnic kitsch eating and entertainment joint, imitating the true interiors of Rajasthan. Tourists can see elegant puppet shows - articulate fingers of the charmer playing with the emotions of the wooden toys - traditional folk performances and can savour the true taste of Rajasthani food. In a race of popularity, the first runner-up position should always go to Apna Gaon. Situated on the Jaipur-Sikar road, Apna Gaon has perfectly recreated the authentic village life of Rajasthan. Most delicacies served here are made from vegetables grown on the same farm. Perched on the 14th floor of Om Tower (200 ft above ground), the Om Revolving Shakahar Restaurant, is the latest and perhaps the most talked about landmark in the city. Situated on the junction of Church Road and M.I. Road, this eating joint provides a panoramic view of the Pink City from every corner. The floor takes around 45 to 60 minutes to go one circle, and hence provides the guests ample time to enjoy the vista outside. Enjoy the multi-cuisine buffet dinner while listening to live 'ghazals' and melodious music collections.
Traditional Rajasthani Dance at Choki Dhani , Jaipur
Princely Games
If you have traveller's luck, you might see a polo match on your Jaipur trip. But the other side of the coin is even darker, it is unlikely that you will ever enjoy polo anywhere else again. The Rajputs of Jaipur were so dedicated polo players, that the last maharajah of the state literally died with his spurs on, on a polo field. Try to send in a special request while planning a trip to Rajasthan, especially if you are a group of polo-playing members. One can also enjoy a round of golf on the 18-hole golf course in Jaipur. A morning trip on the greens is revitalizing if the arena is surrounded by picturesque surroundings, a palace next door with peacocks on the walls. If you have the opportunity to visit Jaipur in January, don't forget to watch the Vintage Car Rally. Though a recent addition, but the rally has become an important event in the Rajasthani calender, and invites prestigious entries from all over the state.
The Royal Retreat - Palace on Wheels
One of the world's eminent luxurious trains, the Palace on Wheels is famous as much for the regal ambiance of the train and the comforts provided on board, as for the sovereign holiday destinations in Rajasthan, it travels everyday. The train offers a life-time travelling experience with luxurious coupes, lavish interiors, superb dining facilities and wall-to-wall carpets. The memorable itinerary starts from the Delhi Cantonment station and returns back to the capital after snaking through Jaipur - Chittaurgarh - Udaipur - Ranthambhore - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur - Bharatpur and Agra, in order. The tariff includes travel, catering, sightseeing, entrance fee at parks and monuments, camel ride, laundry and other items of personal use.
City Tours
Rajasthan Tourist Development Corporation (RTDC) operates daily sightseeing trips, from its office at the railway junction, with additional pick-up joints dotted all over the city. A list of the tariff and destinations covered can be obtained from the Tourist Information Bureau at the station. Remember, these tours do not make any shopping halts and the tariff does not include entrance fee to the monuments. A full-day tour of Rajasthan includes tourist places like Hawa Mahal, City Palace, Jantar Mantar, Amber Fort and Palace, Jaigarh fort, Gaitore Maharajah Cenotaphs and the Birla Temple.
To The City
Jaipur is well connected to Delhi, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai and Kolkata by air routes, and numerous flights of Indian Airlines (office is at Nehru Place Complex, Tonk Road) and Jet Airways (Umain Nagar House, M.I.Road) fly between these destinations regularly. Jagson Airlines is a new entrant on the circuit, linking the Pink City to Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Udaipur and Rajkot. The Sanganer Airport is about 16 km from the city centre, and one can hire taxis, on pre-paid basis, to go to the airport. Auto-rickshaws, a cheaper mode of transport, are also available from the main road, just outside the airport, 50 mt from arrival hall and takes about 30 minutes to transfer to downtown. Radio taxis and tourist cabs are available for short and long trips, in and around Jaipur.
The Jaipur Railway Station is in the heart of town and welcomes trains everyday from all major tourist destinations of Rajasthan. The Shatabdi Express from Delhi, which takes around four-and-a-half hours to travel to Jaipur, is an excellent rail option. The reservation office is fully computerised (call 131 for railway inquiries and 135 for reservation related information). The reservation counters are open from 8 am to 8 pm, from Monday to Saturday, with a brief lunch break at 2 pm. Remember, on Sundays the counter is open till 2 pm only. There is also a pre-paid auto-rickshaw counter, at the corner of the junction.
The National Highway 8 is the connecting link between the Pink City and the National Capital. The entire highway is a four-lane double carriage-way and one can fly on the roads while gazing at the lush landscapes dotted around. Jaipur is around 260 km from Delhi, and it takes around four-five hours to cover the entire distance. Take a short break at any of those road side restaurants (dhabas) at Manesar or Dharuhera for mild refreshments. Both provide ample parking facilities, clean toilets, hygienic dining and shopping outlets. Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation has started another bus service recently, Volvo, air-conditioned deluxe coaches to Delhi, also providing sleeping facilities. One can also avail the Pink Line bus services, operated by Rajasthan Roadways and takes around 5-6 hours to travel to Delhi, from the central bus stand at Sindhi Camp.
One can travel to Agra (230 km) along National Highway 11 via Dausa, Bharatpur and Fatehpur Sikri. The route is a two lane highway with fairly good surface, and medium to light traffic. One can also stop at Bharatpur, to visit the famous Keoladeo Ghana Sanctuary while moving towards the beautiful mausoleum of Taj Mahal. Travel south on NH 12 to reach Sawai Madhopur (162 km), for the Ranthambhor Tiger Reserve.
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